Repair Creams

 

The only products that have been proven to work to reduce wrinkles at this point in time are the vitamin-A cousin tretinoin (in products like Retin-A and Renova), some antioxidants like Vitamin C serums, some hydroxy acids, and possibly creams containing cell-growth factors or peptides.

Link to Repair Cream Recommendations

Vitamin-A creams

Vitamin-A creams have been and are still the gold standard for repair of sun-damaged and aging skin. They also help to prevent precancerous lesions and skin cancer. There’s nothing better available in a cream form. Everyone who can tolerate them should be using one!

The Vitamin-A creams go by all sorts of names like Renova, Retin-A, Tazorac, tretinoin (generic Renova and Retin-A), and Retin-A Micro (all available by prescription only). Retinol is a weaker form available without a prescription. But there is one Retinol product—the SkinCeuticals Retinol 1.0—which is almost as strong as the prescription form.

Some of you may experience irritation when using a vitamin-A cream. If you have problems, first wash with a gentle cleanser, apply a light moisturizer, then let your skin dry for 10 to 15 minutes; then, use a pea-sized amount for your entire face.

Renova is the best for dry or over-40-skin because it has a moisturizing base. Apply these products at night because light inactivates them. You must use a daily sunscreen if you’re using Vitamin-A creams.

What are antioxidants?

It seems as if almost every skin care product now has an added "antioxidant," and many women want to know if they really work.

An antioxidant is any substance that slows or stops free-radical damage to cells. What is free-radical damage to cells? When natural light damages skin cells, extra electrons (now we’re talking molecules) start floating around looking for a home. When those extra electrons find a home (often a cell), they usually damage those cells as they latch on. This then triggers inflammation and cell injury. Anything that slows the injury process down is referred to as an "antioxidant."

Antioxidants in skin creams

Many vitamins, such as Vitamins A, C, and E have antioxidant properties. Coenzymes, such as alpha-lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10, also contain antioxidants as do many plant-derived compounds.

Not surprisingly, more and more cosmetics contain these antioxidants. In fact, there is good evidence to suggest that some antioxidants, like vitamins C and E in a serum form, have significant preventive and repairing effects for sun damage.

But while we think antioxidants may help to reduce the damage to skin cells by natural light, a number of questions remain.

For instance, does sun exposure or air pollution change the amount of time that antioxidants last on our skin? How much is needed of these different antioxidants? What happens when they’re combined (as they often are), and do they even penetrate to where they would help (the skin is a good barrier)? Since free-radical damage to the skin is constant and extensive, how much antioxidant is needed to stop it? Also, do internal antioxidants taken in pill form help skin in the same way and, if so, in what doses? Unfortunately, we really don’t have answers to these kinds of questions.

Even so, it’s a good idea to use a repair cream that contains the important vitamins A, C, and E, including one of the following. 

You can take our Skin Care Test to get recommendations for your skin profile.

Prescription Renova/Retin-A/tretinoin—vitamin-A cream (ask your doctor)

Skin Medica Vitamin C Complex.  This 15% vitamin C serum is in a light base that will not aggravate oiliness or clog pores.  Wear under your moisturizer if you're dry.

Skin Medica Retinol Complex.  This contains three forms of retinol plus vitamin E, in a light base that won't clog pores and is compatible with with moisturizers and sunscreens.

TNS Recovery Complex.  A gentle anti-aging cell growth activator to be used instead of Vitamin A and Vitamin C, which are usually too irritating for sensitive skin.

Replenix Cream—with antioxidant green tea with 90 percent polyphenol isolates (available at dermatologists’ offices and online stores)

Éminence Eight Greens Youth Serum.  An organic anti-aging serum for dry and mature skin (available at salons and online stores)

Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle Cream—with Retinol for dry to normal skin (available at your drugstore) 

Allergan Prevage MD—with antioxidant idebenone (available at dermatologists’ offices and online stores)

Neutrogena Visibly Firm Eyecream, Active Copper Formula (available at your drugstore)

Replenix Intensive Eye Lightening Serum—with peptides and vitamin K (available at dermatologists’ offices and online stores)

SkinWithin EyeBright—with peptides (available at salons and online stores)

Link to Video Demonstration on How To Apply Products

Dr. Irwin

From www.SkinTour.com and Dr. Brandith Irwin. Copyright 2008-2010 SkinTour LLC. All rights reserved. Journalists, bloggers, and media may reprint this without permission so long as they include this credit box with the article.